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Polymers for Personal Care Products and Cosmetics

Polymers for Personal Care Products and Cosmetics

Xian Jun Loh

(2016)

Additional Information

Book Details

Abstract

All aspects of the personal care industry will be comprehensively discussed in Polymers for Personal Care Products and Cosmetics, including biological targets, safety issues, and the legal and regulatory aspects of this large industry. There will be a broad overview of cosmetic ingredients, vehicles and finished products as well as coverage of the main methodologies for microbiology, safety and efficacy testing. The reader will be provided with a solid background of the fundamentals of the area, before being brought up to date on the future of this field, along with discussion of the latest materials trends and future perspectives. Written by a World renowned expert in the area, the book will provide a unique look into this fast developing industry from interviews carried out with key experts in industry and academia. The advantages and disadvantages of the technologies involved in the development of these materials will be highlighted, providing a balanced and thorough review of the current state-of-the-art research. This book will appeal to researchers, academics and students working in polymer and materials chemistry, particularly those with an interest in personal care products.

Table of Contents

Section Title Page Action Price
Cover Cover
Polymers for Personal Care Products and Cosmetics i
Preface vii
Contents ix
Chapter 1 - A Global Analysis of the Personal Care Market 1
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Commercialization of Stimuli Responsive Polymers 4
1.3 Stimuli Responsive Polymers As a Personal Care Ingredient 5
1.4 Commercialization of Bio-Based Polymers 5
1.5 Bio-Based Polymers As a Personal Care Ingredient 6
1.6 Personal Care Products with Active Ingredients 9
1.7 Conclusion 16
References 16
Chapter 2 - Polymers for Personal Care – Natural Protein-Based Polymers 18
2.1 What Is a Personal Care Product 18
2.2 Personal Care Products—Market Overview 19
2.3 The Fundamentals: Amino Acids 20
2.3.1 Sources and Content of Amino Acids 21
2.3.2 Plant Source Proteins 22
2.3.3 Animal Source Proteins 23
2.3.3.1 Collagen and Elastin 25
2.3.3.2 Keratin 28
2.3.3.3 Silk 28
2.3.3.4 Milk Proteins 30
2.4 Production of Hydrolyzed Proteins 30
2.4.1 Major Steps 30
2.4.2 Hydrolysis of Proteins 31
2.4.2.1 Acid Hydrolysis 31
2.4.2.2 Base Hydrolysis 31
2.4.2.3 Enzymatic Hydrolysis 31
2.4.2.3.1\rEnzymes Used. 32
2.5 Discussions and Comparisons 32
2.5.1 Molecular Weight of Proteins 32
2.5.2 Isoelectric Point 32
2.5.3 Hydrophobicity 34
2.5.4 Comparison of Different Hydrolysis Processes 34
2.6 Outlook and Prospects 35
References 36
Chapter 3 - Polyacrylates for Personal Care 37
3.1 Introduction 37
3.2 Uses of Polyacrylates 40
3.2.1 Characterising Rheological Modifiers 40
3.2.1.1 Rheological Effects 40
3.2.1.2 Other Characterisations 42
3.3 Monomers of Polyacrylates and Their Synthesis 43
3.4 Alkali Swellable Emulsion (ASE) 45
3.5 Hydrophobically Modified Alkali Swellable Emulsion (HASE) 47
3.6 Cross-Linked Poly(acrylic acid) 50
3.7 Safety Issues with Polyacrylates 52
3.8 Comparing Different Polyacrylates 53
3.9 Comparing Polyacrylates with Other Rheological Modifiers 54
3.10 Outlook, Perspectives and Recommendations 54
References 56
Chapter 4 - Natural Rheological Modifiers for Personal Care 60
4.1 Introduction 60
4.1.1 Personal Care Market and Trends 62
4.1.2 Natural “Progression” of Personal Care Market 62
4.2 Personal Care Formulations 63
4.2.1 Emulsifiers 64
4.2.2 Preservatives 65
4.2.3 Colouring Agents, Fragrances and pH Stabilisers 65
4.2.4 Rheological Modifiers 65
4.3 Rheology 66
4.3.1 Rheology Profiles 67
4.3.1.1 Newtonian Flow 67
4.3.1.2 Pseudoplastic Flow 67
4.3.1.3 Thixotropic Flow 68
4.3.1.4 Dilatant Flow 68
4.3.2 Types of Rheological Modifiers 68
4.3.2.1 Natural Polymers: Polysaccharides 69
4.3.2.2 Anionic Polysaccharides 70
4.3.2.2.1 Alginates (Alginic Acid). 70
4.3.2.2.2 Pectin. 73
4.3.2.2.3 Xanthan Gum. 73
4.3.2.2.4 Carrageenans. 74
4.3.2.2.5 Cellulose Gum (Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose). 76
4.3.2.3 Cationic Polysaccharides 78
4.3.2.3.1 Chitosan. 78
4.3.2.3.2 Cationic Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC). 79
4.3.2.4 Non-Ionic Polysaccharides 80
4.3.2.4.1 Starch. 80
4.3.2.4.2 Cellulose Ethers. 81
4.3.2.4.3 Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC). 81
4.3.2.4.4 Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC). 82
4.3.2.4.5 Methylcellulose (MC). 83
4.3.2.4.6 Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC). 83
4.3.2.4.7 Ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC). 83
4.3.2.4.8 Amphoteric Polysaccharides. 83
4.3.2.4.9 Carboxymethylchitosan. 84
4.3.2.4.10 N-[(2′-Hydroxy-2′,3′-dicarboxy)ethyl]chitosan. 84
4.3.2.4.11 Modified Potato Starch. 84
4.4 Future Outlooks 85
References 85
Chapter 5 - Antibacterial Polymers 90
5.1 Introduction 90
5.1.1 Antibacterial Polymers and Their Mechanism 92
5.1.2 History of Antibacterial Polymers 93
5.2 Polymers with Inherent Antibacterial Activity 94
5.2.1 Chitosan 94
5.2.2 Quaternary Ammonium Polymers 94
5.2.3 Hyperbranched Polymers 96
5.2.4 Polymers Containing Guanidine Groups 97
5.2.5 Polymers That Mimic Antimicrobial Peptides 98
5.3 Chemically Modified Polymers 100
5.3.1 N-Halamine-Based Groups 100
5.4 Addition of Antibacterial Agents 102
5.5 Discussion and Comparison 104
5.6 Future Perspectives 104
5.6.1 Clinical Trials 105
5.6.2 Future Research 105
References 105
Chapter 6 - Four-Dimensional (4D) Printing in Consumer Applications 108
6.1 A Primer on 3D Printing 108
6.2 Soft Adaptive Materials 109
6.3 (3 + 1)D = 4D: Early Promises 110
6.4 Outlook and Perspectives 113
References 115
Chapter 7 - Nanoparticle Safety in Cosmetics 117
7.1 Introduction 117
7.1.1 Overview of Cosmetics 118
7.2 Accumulation of Nanoparticles in the Body 120
7.2.1 Skin 120
7.2.2 Respiratory System 121
7.2.3 Ingestion 121
7.2.4 Internal Organs 121
7.3 Nanomaterials Used in Cosmetics and Their Safety 121
7.3.1 Inorganic Nanomaterials 122
7.3.1.1 Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide 122
7.3.1.2 Nanosilver 123
7.3.1.3 Nanogold 124
7.3.2 Organic Nanomaterials 124
7.3.2.1 Liposomes 124
7.3.2.2 Nanocapsules 125
7.3.2.3 Solid Lipid Nanoparticles 126
7.3.2.4 Nanoemulsions 126
7.3.2.5 Hydrogels 127
7.4 Safety Standards for Cosmetics 127
7.4.1 Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)33 127
7.4.2 Food and Drug Administration (FDA)34 128
7.4.3 Health Science Authority in Singapore35 128
7.4.4 National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) in Australia36 129
7.5 Drivers of Nanomaterials Usage 130
7.6 Challenges of Nanomaterials Usage 130
7.6.1 Consumers 130
7.6.2 Workplace 130
7.6.3 Environment 131
7.7 Discussion 131
7.7.1 Is Use of Nanoparticles Necessary 131
7.7.2 Is Concern Over Its Use Necessary 131
7.8 Outlook 132
References 132
Chapter 8 - Silicones: The Future for Beauty and Everyday Care 135
8.1 Introduction 135
8.2 Applications of Silicones 137
8.2.1 Silicone and Hair Care 137
8.2.2 Silicone and Skin Care 139
8.2.2.1 Sunscreen Products 140
8.2.2.2 Facial and Body Cleanser 140
8.2.2.3 Daytime Hand and Body Skin Cream 141
8.2.2.4 Nighttime Skin Lotion 141
8.2.3 Silicone and Cosmetics 142
8.3 Silicon As Delivery Systems 144
8.3.1 Silicone Vesicles 145
8.4 Silicones and Their Properties 146
8.4.1 Polydimethylsiloxane 146
8.4.2 Cyclomethicone 148
8.4.3 Silicone Elastomers 149
8.4.4 Silicone Resin 150
8.5 Issues with Silicone 150
8.5.1 Safety Issues 150
8.5.2 Environmental Concerns 151
8.6 Conclusion 151
References 152
Chapter 9 - Towards Cyclodextrin-Based Supramolecular Materials 154
9.1 Introduction 154
9.2 α-CD + PEG Gels 156
9.2.1 α-CD + Modified PEG Gels 157
9.3 γ-CD + PEG Gels 160
9.4 CD + Other Monomer Gels 160
9.4.1 Polyethers 161
9.4.2 Polyamines 161
9.4.3 Cationic Polymers 162
9.4.4 Hydrophobic Polymers 163
9.4.5 Block Copolymers 165
9.4.6 Hybrid Inclusion Complex (HIC) 165
9.5 Nature of Inclusion Complex Formation 167
9.5.1 Inclusion Complex Driven by Micellization 168
9.6 Stimuli-Responsive Features of Hydrogels 168
9.6.1 Mechanical 169
9.6.2 Temperature 170
9.6.3 UV and Visible Light Irradiations 171
9.6.4 Electrical and Redox Stimuli 172
9.6.5 Chemically Responsive 172
9.7 Conclusion 173
References 173
Chapter 10 - Thermogelling Polymers: A Cutting Edge Rheology Modifier 178
10.1 Introduction 178
10.2 Synthesis and Self-Assembly of Thermogelling Polymers 179
10.2.1 PEG-Based Block Copolymers 181
10.2.2 Thermogelling Polymers Made from Ring Opening Polymerizations 183
10.2.3 Thermogelling Polyurethanes 184
10.2.4 Temperature Responsive PNIPAAm-Based Block Copolymers 185
10.2.5 Poly(oligo(ethylene glycol) methyl ether methacrylate) (PoEGMA) and Poly(oligo(ethylene glycol) acrylate Thermogelling Pol... 188
10.3 Evaluating the Resorbability of Thermogels 189
10.4 Therapeutics Encapsulation and Delivery 195
10.5 Outlook and Perspectives 200
References 200
Chapter 11 - Pectin As a Rheology Modifier: Recent Reports on Its Origin, Structure, Commercial Production and Gelling Mechanism 205
11.1 Introduction 206
11.2 Biological Aspects of Pectins 206
11.3 Chemical Aspects of Pectin 207
11.4 Galacturonic Acid Units and Degree of Esterification 209
11.5 Commercial Pectin 210
11.6 Industrial Production of Pectin 210
11.7 The Influence of Extraction Conditions on the Isolation and Recovery of Pectin 211
11.8 Production of Low Methoxyl Pectin 212
11.8.1 Acid De-Esterification 212
11.8.2 Alkali De-Esterification 213
11.8.3 Ammonia De-Esterification 214
11.8.4 Enzymes De-Esterification 214
11.9 Gelling Mechanism of Pectin 215
11.9.1 Gelation of High Methoxyl Pectin 215
11.9.2 Gelation of Low Methoxyl Pectin 216
11.9.3 Comparison Between Gelling Mechanisms of High Methoxyl Pectin and Low Methoxyl Pectin 218
11.9.4 Effect of Pectin Modification on Gelling Mechanisms 218
11.9.5 Factors Affecting the Gelation of Pectins 219
11.9.5.1 Intrinsic Factors Affecting the Gelation of Pectins 219
11.9.5.1.1 Molecular Arrangement. 219
11.9.5.1.2 Molecular Weight. 219
11.9.5.1.3 Carboxyl Distribution. 220
11.9.5.1.4 Degree of Esterification. 220
11.9.5.2 Extrinsic Factors Affecting Gelation of Pectins 220
11.9.5.2.1 Ionic Strength. 220
11.9.5.2.2 pH. 221
11.9.5.2.3 Temperature. 221
11.9.5.2.4 Presence of Co-Solutes. 221
11.10 Conclusion 222
References 222
Chapter 12 - Perspectives on the Development of the Personal Care Industry 227
12.1 Introduction 227
12.1.1 The Rise of Testing Laboratories 228
12.1.2 Training a Workforce 230
12.2 Conclusion 231
Subject Index 232